Confessions of a Western Wino: California Gold: Catalina Island

The Mansion on Mt. Ada,
former home of the Wrigleys

Text and photos by Jason McKenney

It sounded like the Wrigley Family had owned the entire island at one point or another. They had houses, hotels, restaurants. I didn't blame them. If I was living in Chicago I would do my best to escape to a warm island paradise as well. I was visiting Catalina Island with my parents. We landed at the dock in a small tinder and made our way to a bus that drove us up the hillside to the airport. The Catalina Airport is a privately owned venture at the peak of one of the island's highest hills and I was looking forward to the view.

A grazing bison

Santa Catalina is a rocky little island off the coast of California just a few miles west of Long Beach. It is part of the Channel Islands of California archipelago. The highest point on the island is the 2,097 foot Mt. Orizaba, just a few hundred feet higher than the hill the airport was built upon. It's a small airport, not much more than a landing strip and watch tower, and rarely used. When we arrived at the top we got out of the bus to stretch our legs and use the restrooms. There is a small gift shop and cafe by the airport that probably gains more business from tourists like ourselves than from flying passengers.

The day was overcast and a bit chilly. The dreary weather was quickly forgotten when a small herd of buffalo were spotted grazing along the side of the road . . . American Bison . . . on a small island in the Pacific.

Story goes they were flown in for a silent film in the '20s called The Vanishing American. They have since taken root and are protected residents now. The setup reminded me of the relocation of zebras to the hills surrounding the Hearst Castle in Central California. These are wild indulgences of extravagance that, within the United States, are nearly exclusive to California.

Downtown Avalon

Catalina was originally settled by Native Americans who called the island Pimugna or Pimu. Prior to European exploration, the island was inhabited by the Tongva tribe. Archeological evidence shows Tongva settlements beginning in 7000 BC. The first Europeans to arrive on Catalina claimed it for the Spanish Empire in the 16th century, a mere 8500 years later. The Portuguese explorer Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo was allegedly the first European to set foot on the island in the year 1542. Over the next three centuries, territorial claims to the island transferred to Mexico and then to the United States. During this time, the island was sporadically used for smuggling, otter hunting, and gold-digging, before successfully being developed into a tourist destination by Chewing Gum King William Wrigley, Jr. in the 1920s.

The Avalon Theatre

The only incorporated city on the island is Avalon. It's a small, tranquil town by the main harbor filled with candy shops, boat rentals, restaurants, and hotels. The iconic Avalon Theatre sits on the north end of the harbor like a giant roofed coliseum from a bygone era.

We took a slow boat ride across the harbor. We had good looks at the local fishermen pulling in their catch for the day. We passed a line of motor boats awaiting tourists to take them out for a dip. The water is relaxing. The day is warming up. Moving further out into the bay and looking back at the island of Santa Catalina, one understands how such a peaceful and beautiful place could be the motivator of men stretching back across centuries.