Friday, August 26, 2016

California Gold: Aquarium of the Pacific at Rainbow Harbor

Boats docked in the Rainbow Harbor soak in the morning
sun while the lighthouse watches over in the distance.

Text and photos by Jason McKenney

“Don’t ever grow up to be one of those people, my dear.”

We were on a relaxing stroll around the Rainbow Harbor of Long Beach, slowly circling the white sidewalk up towards the lighthouse, me and my eighteen-month-old daughter. A family had passed us; mother, father, and two teenage kids. Each one of them had been staring blankly at a mobile device as they walked, missing all the beauty that surrounded them. It was sadly comical.

The morning was bright and warming quickly. The sun’s reflection shimmered on the blue water like the flapping of a million golden butterflies. As we walked we were passed by joggers on our left, bicyclists on our right. We moved closer to the top of the small hill that jutted out towards the Queensway Bay. At the top of the hill was the pristine lighthouse that has become a Long Beach icon. I also noticed so many people walking by staring at their phones that I began to wonder what I was missing out on.

“Too many screens will be the death of us, Frankie.”

We reached the top of the hill. The bay stretched out ahead of us while the harbor curled in behind. The Queen Mary, a beautiful 1936 ocean liner now a hotel, rested nobly on the far side of the bay. A Princess cruise ship waited further out, preparing for its departure to sea. It was probably headed north to San Francisco or possibly south to Ensenada, Mexico. Either option would be a joy.

The lighthouse sits on top of the hill at Rainbow Harbor,
guarded by slender Washingtonia robusta palm trees.
Turning around we viewed the restaurants, shops, and docked boats lining the other side of the harbor. The tall financial buildings and hotels of downtown Long Beach jutted up just beyond. The Aquarium of the Pacific is nestled comfortably inside the harbor. It draws attendance both locally and from around the world. The spill-off of Aquarium visitors has helped support the cottage industries that have cropped up around the harbor: whale watching tours, bed and breakfasts on yachts, dinner theaters, sport fishing and an assortment of other harbor excursions to suit every fancy, even burials at sea when the time is right.

I had brought a stroller for my daughter but she insisted on walking. We walked slowly back down the hill and made our way towards the front gate. The Aquarium of the Pacific is open every day of the year save Christmas and during the Long Beach Grand Prix in April. Their website advises the best time to arrive on the weekends is early. We arrived at 9am right when they opened. Already at that time a healthy line was queueing up outside the gate, mostly families with children waiting anxiously to see the animals. I imagined all the animals inside breathlessly preparing to see all the children and I chuckled to myself.

A group of penguins prepare for the day at
the Aquarium of the Pacific.
Once inside, I picked up Frankie and carried her through the main concourse. We passed the interior displays and walked briskly under the giant fiberglass blue whale named Edie. Frankie stared up in wonder, confused as to what the giant creature was doing up there. We headed to the outdoor wing where the popular touchpools reside. We burst through the double-doors and made our way to the stingray tank before it was mobbed by kids. The rays glided under the water like spirits before slyly poking their noses up waiting for pets like spoiled puppies. Frankie is usually very excited around animals. She pointed at the rays and said “Nini!” which is the name of our family dog. “No, not Nini. Here, you can pet the stingray.”

A stingray at the Aquarium stares at us, awaiting its pets.
I picked Frankie up and began to lean her down towards the briny water so she could oblige the strange-looking fish, but she suddenly tensed up, clutching me with a koala hug, and turned away. Not quite as brave as I thought. We walked by the other touch-tanks filled with shovelnose guitarfish (I had never heard of them either) and other breeds of rays, all of which were very popular with the arriving guests.

We headed back inside to walk through the dark tunnels and passageways that hold the interior exhibits. Each exhibit is categorized geographically.  The Southern California & Baja tunnel features animals that live in the water surrounding Catalina Island (another nearby destination that can be quickly accessed via boats departing the Rainbow Harbor). A giant kelp forest is recreated in the Amber Forest exhibit, home to the jagged California scorpionfish. The Gulf of California display contains pastel-colored rainbow wrasse, porcupinefish (aka blowfish due to their ability to puff up), and the gloomy-looking Mexican lookdowns with their long faces and frowny mouths. Seals and Sea Lions can also be found in this wing, bathing, diving, and performing like hams for your attention.

The Northern Pacific Gallery contains life from the Bering Sea such as Sea Otters, giant octopus (which unfortunately are not big enough to pull down a submarine), long-legged spider crabs, and glowing jelly fish. One exhibit contains a replica of a cold and rocky coastline acting as home to thick-beaked puffins and white-eyed auklets. Being a great fan of Hawaii, I enjoyed stepping through the Tropical Pacific tunnel. The enormous Tropical Reef Habitat houses large sea turtles, spotted zebra sharks, and a coral lagoon. In other tanks are the kaleidoscopic butterfly fish, striped humbugs, and yellow-lipped clown triggerfish. This wing is also home to the bazar leafy seadragons, weedly seadragons, and a variety of majestic sea horses that make one grateful such odd-looking creatures have evolved on this planet.

The Aquarium is a great place for grown-ups curious about sea life from the deepest oceans that they may not otherwise ever be able to see, but for children, the Aquarium really sings. The dark passages, vibrant touchpools, and cackling lorikeets create an atmosphere of wonder and intrigue that one just can’t get by reading a book or watching NatGeo, or even staring at an iPhone.

Enjoying the view of Queensway Bay with the Queen Mary in the distance.

If you go…
Rainbow Harbor
Rainbow Harbor and Rainbow Marina is located between Shoreline Village and the Aquarium of the Pacific in the heart of downtown Long Beach. It is also just steps away from an array of shopping, dining and entertainment options, located at Shoreline Village and the Pike Outlet stores.

Aquarium of the Pacific
Open 9:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m.
Every Day of the Year, Except Christmas Day (Dec. 25) and During the Grand Prix of Long Beach
General Admission $29.95 (age 12+) $17.95 (ages 3-11) $26.95 (ages 62+)

Jellies
Seahorse
Frankie colors a fish.
A sea otter takes a bath.

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