Text and photos by Jason McKenney
The eyeballs are set low in the cheeks, below the woman’s
mouth. Is she smiling, frowning? Both? A large gnome holding a balloon peeks
around a window in front of a dappled concrete storefront. An outdoor stairwell
leading down a steep hillside is colored cheerfully like an elementary school
hallway: yellows and reds and blues alternating and mixing like long forgotten
art projects. In one dilapidated corner an overweight woman stands in the buff,
turned so her bulging buttocks face us, the dimpled flesh appears to be
bubbling up from a witch’s cauldron.
These are just some of artistic achievements one will
find walking the zig-zagging cobblestone streets of this hillside neighborhoods
of Valparaíso, Chile. The narrow walkways wind between old buildings, rising
and falling, curling and undulating. A dark tunnel here, a hidden alley there.
The streets of Valparaíso’s art walk remind one of an old European township as
decorated by Andy Warhol. The architecture is Latin America meets Sleepy
Italian Coastal village, but the paintings (it’s hard to refer to it as
“graffiti”) are unmistakably fresh and new, alive with the passions and color
of a new generation of emerging artists. Old mansions and small storefronts
dating back to the 1920s have been spruced up, brightly painted, and are open
for business.
Stairwells and walk ramps lead off from the main roads
allowing pedestrians quicker access down the slope of the city that gradually
leads towards the busy harbor. Some of these stairwells lead through brief
tunnels decorated with plush furniture and brightly colored paintings. One
feels as if they’ve maybe stepped into Wonderland. All that’s missing is the
Hare and the Hatter.
Giant murals are painted on the walls outside many of the
hostels found in the neighborhood. Young travelers awaken and step outside to
be greeted by ocean breezes, sunlit skies, and the comforting pastel tones of
intricate street art.
There is a unique take on art in Chile, different than
the rest of South America. It neither looks overtly to Europe for its influence
the way Argentina does, nor does it dig deep into its native past like many of
its South American neighbors. Instead, Chile produces an interesting blend of
skilled modern art shaded with contemporary Latin American themes, much of
which can say great things to visitors from anywhere in the world. Themes of
personal expression, rising up from obscurity, finding a voice.
We drove up from the lower coastal area of the city where
families on holiday enjoyed the giant waves, market squares, and trendy
restaurants of nearby Viña del Mar. The hilled sections of Valpo give great
panoramic views of the harbor, but the noise and congestion of the main drag
were left behind as we found a time warp back to a place that reminded me of the
kaliedescope-colored days of Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco.
My wife was born in Santiago, roughly 72 miles (120 km)
southeast of Valpo. We have joined her sister and her sister’s boyfriend for a
brief excursion to do the art walk. It begins by finding a reasonable place to
park the car. Street parking is sufficient depending on time of day (the
earlier the better) and the amount of construction taking place (new concrete
is being poured to fortify some of these inclined roads).
Leaving the car, we walked around the grid enclosed east
to west between the streets Lautaro Rosas and Papudo, and north to south
between Miramar and Almirante Montt. The central artery of the art district is
Templeman. We popped our heads into the local galleries to see what was for
sale. One gallery specialized in wood and metal sculptures. They had horses,
rabbits, and dolphin figures formed out of bronze and oak. This gave them a
very rustic and contemplative appearance. Imagine old rabbits with long faces,
aged with knowledge. Exquisite detail. Sullen but beautiful.
Venturing further along Templeman, close to the Casa
Museo Mirador Lukas, we found a street market where vendors sold tapestries,
paintings, key chains, and hats. Leather goods and summer dresses filled other
stations. At the end of the market was a guard rail signifying the end of the
street at the edge of an abrupt drop. Looking over the rail one found a
breathtaking view of the docks and city below. The blue curve of the bay stretched
out to the east and the endless expanse of the Pacific glittered to the west. I
couldn’t help but imagine the ocean filled with large fish and giant monsters
lurking just beneath the surface, waiting to gobble up anyone who swam too far
from shore.
Moving back up the next street and away from the port, we
stopped for refreshments at one of the large restaurants along the Paseo
Yugoslavo. The restaurant was a mix of Victorian elegance and Latin style.
We sat at a table on the upstairs patio sipping red wine from the nearby
Casablanca vineyards while nibbling on salads and fresh bread.
The neighborhood is filled with boutique restaurants,
hostels and cafés to appease any day-walker. At Mori one can find fresh sushi.
The popular Le Filou de Montpellier specializes in French cuisine. Both are
highly recommended. Del Pinto and Con Cuento are two of the many cozy coffee
shops. There are numerous hostels for spendthrifts but traditional hotels as
well for those looking for more privacy.
Near the street market, my wife found an artist selling
his own paintings of the city emphasizing the amazing views before us. We
purchased one painting of the bay at night, highlighted with warm sodium lights
and a pastel moon. The work of art now hangs in my daughter’s room, a reminder
that her roots grow deep in the skinny nation of Chile. A nation with an art
scene in full bloom awaiting your arrival.
If you go . . .
Hostel suggestions: Hostal Cerro Alegre ($40-$50), Casa
Kultour ($45)
Hotel suggestions: Hotel Manoir Atkinson ($110), Hotel
Casa Vander ($135)
From Santiago: 80 minute drive due northwest
Vina Del Mar: Just to the east of Valparaiso. Vina del
Mar contains more traditional resort spaces and resources for families.
